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17 posts • Page 1 of 1
Thanks, but it's really not all that original.
The idea really came from the Camo Zakk Wylde Bullseye model.
I just wanted to see what it would look like with EVH stripes instead.
Have you seen what I found for the matching strap?
The shells are hollow, so it's not as heavy as it looks.
Thanks for the compliment.
I hope to get this one done soon.
Well, I just received my bandolier yesterday and I take back what I said ... The bullets have been disabled (no gunpowder or primers), but they are still they real deal (7.62) and are VERY heavy.
I'm still going to go ahead and make the strap just to see if I can, but because it the weight, it will most likely only be used as a "prop" for photos.
I've seen the guitar straps you're talking about with bullets on them before, but the one's I've seen all look fake and cheap IMO.
I thought maybe using the real thing would be cool.
I just never anticipated it being so heavy.
I'm trying something a little different for the finish.
I was initially going to use a 2-pac flat clearcoat, but decided against it.
After talking to some who have used this same finish, I was told that it becomes shinny in areas that receive wear (like the forearm contour, etc..)
What I've decided to try instead is to clear the body with gloss urethane, wetsand it flat with 1500 grit, and then use 0000 steel wool to smooth it all out.
I've started shooting the clear, and after the first coat, I tried this on a section of the body and it turned out exactly the way I was hoping.
Because there are so many layers to the paintjob, I went ahead and shot another coat and that looks like that's all the coats I'm going to need ... just two decent coats (as opposed to 30+ with Krylon ).
This guitar is probably the only one I will do using this technique, but it's kinda nice getting away from the shinny paintjobs for awhile.
After wetsanding the body, I noticed what appeared to be dust in the clearcoat. Upon further inspection, what I found has occured was "solvent pop". Solvent pop is when tiny air bubbles are trapped in the paint and is usually caused by spraying your coats too heavy.
Here's a closer look ...
There are a few tricks you can do to try to get them out, or at least make them less obvious, and I tried them all. The only thing that seemed to work was to sand them out. Well ... because the paintjob is done in layers, it was impossible to sand it all out without sanding through the paint.
IMO, the idea of an EVH Camo was just too good to give up on.
It broke my heart to do this, but I saw no other way ...
All of my hours of hard work were reduced to this ...
And here we have my second attempt ...
I really hated to have to do this one all over, but I'm extremely picky when it comes to stuff like this.
As it turned out, I kinda like the new camo pattern a little better.
I tried to mimmick the pattern on my first attempt in some areas that I liked, but doing it over gave me the opportunity to improve on the areas that I thought needed improvement.
Here is the old version (left) and the new version (right) side by side ...
Anyway ... it took awhile, but things are finally back on track.
Like I said ... I tried it all.
Lacquer thinner may have worked if the graphics weren't done in layers, but the solvent pop was visable right down to the very first coat of clearcoat. Meaning I would have had to wipe away three of the base colors used to create the camoflauge before I would even reach the bubbles that covered the black stripes.
Another trick I tried was to soak a Sharpie marker in alcohol.
Once the black marker disolves into the alcohol, you can use a toothbrush to scrub the body and try to fill the tiny crators.
This method works great if the solvent pop just appears on the surface, but unfortunately, there were bubbles trapped deep in the finish.
The only thing that seemed to work was sanding them out, but ...
again, that would have also required me to sand off three layers of basecoat to sand out ALL of the solvent pop.
As I saw it, I really had no choice but to do this one over.
As far as investing in additives for "fish eyes" ... I don't believe it's the same thing.
Fish eyes are quite different in appearance and are usually a result of some sort of contamination.
Unfortunately, I've experienced this as well.
On the bright side ...
The more bad stuff you encounter, the more knowledge you gain in knowing how to avoid it the next time.
I feel for ya man, I know you put alot of work into that one... My hats off to ya for doing it over the right way by doing it over. You would be suprised what the flow agent could do, its basically a retarder which slows down the drying process allowing the bubbles to work their way out of the finish. I use retarder when I need a really glossy finish too, for some reason it just works better than lacquer thinner which can dull the surface.
Next time something like this happens, you'll be hearing from me.
By the way for my 3000th post I decided to celebrate by giving a guitar away in a Building contest, you, Shaggy, Doc and everyone is welcome to enter it. Since I'm doing the giveaway I'm excluded from this, you should see my post in the Dungeon... It would be nice if you get you butt back there for a few, theres a huge beer tab waiting for you...
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
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